petzl team

Petzl Crew's blog

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Keyword - Ice climbing

Adieu Guy December 14, 2009

We just learned yesterday that Guy Lacelle was killed in an avalanche during the Bozeman Ice Festival.  This tragic news strikes at the heart of the Petzl family, adding to a overwhelmingly sad 2009. Guy has long been a close friend to all of us at Petzl, both in North America and Europe. His low-key, modest demeanor belied an intense personality. He was always psyched to go out into the cold and swing his ice tools. In the summer, he worked for the British Columbia forestry department in Canada - a sort of Johnny Appleseed of the Northwest pine forests - which allowed him to climb fulltime when the temps dipped below freezing.

Guy was one of the leading ice climbers in North America, responsable for many bold solo ascents in his home country of Canada and elsewhere. He was a regular at many major ice climbing events and was still pushing the limits of ice climbing until the day he died at the age of 54.

A photo gallery of images of Guy can be viewed here. Plus we have a few videos featuring Guy here and here. To get an idea of Guy's exceptional honesty and modesty, take a few moments to read an interview with him in the Alpinist Magazine.  

Our thoughts and prayers go out to everyone that was touched by Guy's kindness and psyche. As a small way to pay tribute to Guy, we will be posting thoughts and words from those in the Petzl family and the climbing community who knew and loved him. We will be adding to it as we recieve them. Please feel free to add your own thoughts in the comment section at the bottom of the page and we will publish them.

 

"Guy was the best ice climber ever, he dedicated all his life to this activity, opened an unbeleivable number of new ice routes, soloed most of them and has been a mentor for a lot of ice climbers until today."
-Erwan Le Lann, Petzl France sponsorship manager

"I last spoke with Guy the night before he was to compete in his motel in Bozeman. He never seemed more alive. Guy expressed how excited he was about life, climbing and the upcoming season. The best part about our conversation, as was common with Guy, he took the time to ask me how things were going in my life as well. Always positive. Always had good things to say about everyone he met and everywhere he went. Humble to the core and truly a BAD ASS when it came to keeping his composure while doing the extreme."
-Chuck Odette, Petzl America events and athlete coordinator

“In addition to being very friendly and humble, Guy was a great master in his discipline, and a true ambassador for ice climbing ”
-Marius Olsen, climbing partner and friend for ice adventures in Norway and Norwegian Petzl distributor

“Guy was one of the rare, humble, true nice guys in the climbing world. He always seemed to enjoy teaching less accomplished athletes more than pursuing his personal climbing goals -- rare for someone at his super elite level. I hope his legacy will inspire more people to be so selfless like he was.”
-John Pieper, Osprey Packs Sales Director, former Sales Director of Petzl America

"Guy was one of a kind. He was the Obe One Kenobi of the climbing world. Wise, humble, a teacher, a pro, had time for everyone. Great, great person."
-John Irvine, International Sales Director, Arc'Teryx
 

 

 

Scottish Ice Trip - Day 7 March 5, 2009

The all white day...
It was a promising sight when I first peered out of the window this morning. Beyond the wet glass and besides a constant tapping of the rain, the mountains across the bay were covered in snow. Well, the temperature decided to drop at last.

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Scottish Ice Trip - Day 5 March 1, 2009

As checked out the previous day, it is warm outside...and still raining.
The bravest of us are awake around 7.30am for the scottish cooked breakfast.

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Scottish Ice Trip - Day 3 February 27, 2009

For what seems forever will this thaw ever come to an end?
After waiting with excitement for the last couple of months for the guys to arrive, all seems to be falling apart... Wanting so much to show people how good Scottish winter climbing can be things are off to a slow wet start.

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Scottish Ice Trip - Day 1&2 February 26, 2009

February 24th. 3.45am.
A bunch of Petzl team members are gathered at the headquarters to get to Geneva airport. An hour and half later, we meet up with the rest of the crew. Its now Ueli Steck, Martial Dumas, Yann Mimet, Mathieu Maynadier, Anthony Lamiche, Aljaz Anderle as well as Petzl Staff Erwan Le Lann, Loïc Tonnot and Cameraman Guillaume Broust. Bertrand Delapierre, another cameraman came from Chamonix to put his filming skills into what should be another interesting Petzl movie.

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Outdoorgames 2009 : "Action!" February 17, 2009

This film festival began for his second winter edition in Chamonix.
It will last until the 21th of February, and gather all the best outdoor filming crews.
A quick resume of what this festival features...

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Audrey Gariépy: a mixed route on the Kwangde Lho, Nepal February 11, 2009

In Mid-December, I flew to Nepal with Ines Papert (Germany), Jen Olson (Canada), Cory Richards (USA) and Chris Alstrin (USA).  Our goal was to try to open a new route on the North Face of Kwangde Lho (6187m).

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Outdoorgames Movie - The Final Cut March 7, 2008

Just a few words to introduce the MedeO'z movie, made for the Outdoorgames at Chamonix.
Please visit their website to learn more about this wonderful and very creative event...
The idea is (as we presented in a latest post) : Seven teams of professional film production companies had to create three differents projects in only five days!

  • A 5 minute short film
  • A photo gallery
  • A 1 minute making-of short film

Our idea was to combine all the projects in one, instead of doing three separate projects.
We approached this contest like a global concept, relating the film, the photo and the making-of.
That’s what you will understand here below :

  • 1/ THE FILM :
  • A 5-minute short film movie featuring 5 different sports: mountaineering, skiing, snowboarding, paragliding and base jumping. All the footage and editing had to be done in five days, from Monday to Friday and had to be shot in the Mount Blanc range.
    The movie had to be understandable for the international jury, so we made the voice-over in English. A French version is coming soon!
    But for those who don’t really understand English: the idea was to tell the story of our photographer, who wanted to take the 5 sports in one picture, instead of taking one picture of each sport. This picture took us a lot of work and energy!!


DOWNLOAD the movie in high resolution format (Quicktime - H264 codec - 193 Mo).



  • 2/ THE PHOTO CONTEST :
  • Photographers of each team had to take 20 pictures, with at least one picture of each sport.
    As I said above, the ‘project’ of our photographer was to shoot the 5 sports, but in one picture.
    Please visit the photo gallery to see the 20 pictures of our ‘very special’ photographer :
    Mr Tony Lamiche.




  • 3/ THE MAKING - OF :
  • Then check out the “Making-of” short, the logical conclusion to this first film.
    The rules of the making-of competition were to create a 1 minute short film, including footage of the movie creation, the backstage of the film and the Nissan car loaned to use for the week. As you can see, everything is connected, and that’s what we wanted to do.





  • BACKSTAGE :
  • Download the story-board of the film, (.PDF) , which had been made three months before the event !!
    As you can see, we did exactly what we drew, every shot was planned...
    It's crazy to see how the film is so similar to the storyboard...





Some pics, from the 'Making-of' movie, in order to show you the setup of the film...



    A lot of video equipment !!




Thanks again to the crew, who got really involved in the project, even late into night!
Thanks to MedeO, the video company who really managed the creation of the film.
A huge thanks to Liv, who really got into the moment, ice and alpine climbing with both a photographer and a filmmaker. Not an easy task!!!!
Thanks to Tony, the spirit and star of the film. His hard work helped bring the film together.
It’s sometimes easier to be an elite athlete than to be a great actor!!

See also all the posts of the Petzl Team about the Outdoorgames.
Watch the videos of the 7 teams for the video contest !

Audrey Gariepy back from an ice trip in Norway February 26, 2008

Audrey Gariepy (Petzl athlete) just came back from an ice climbing trip in Norway, with Guy Lacelle and a few other ice climbers (Mathieu Audibert, Chris Alstrin and Alex Lavigne).

Eidfjord's fjord