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Keyword - Hardest redpoints

Beth Rodden sends her hardest route March 10, 2008

- First ascent - Hardest redpoints - Rock climbing

Beth Rodden completed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, CA.

She worked on the route for 4 months through the stormy Sierra winter contending with feet of snow. The route is protects completely natural and she placed all of the gear on lead.

I worked harder on this route than any other single pitch climb I have done. Rodden is hesitant to give the route a letter grade, but considering she has redpointed several 5.14a's and did the first ascent of the Optimist (5.14b) in roughly half the time, Meltdown is most likely the hardest climb redpointed by an American woman, and the hardest traditional climb completed in the world by a woman. If it is 5.14c it puts her in an elite category of two or three women ever to have climbed the grade of 5.14c.

See also the news on Alpinist.com.

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Mickael Fuselier in "Fifty words..." - the video October 14, 2007

- First ascent - Hardest redpoints - Red River Gorge - Rock climbing - RocTrip - Video

After several tries during two days, Mickael Fuselier made the first ascent of "Fifty words for pumped" in Red River Gorge, for the Petzl RocTrip.


Mickael Fuselier during the first ascent of "Fifty words..."

TIP : Press two times on the "PLAY" button to launch the buffer. Then, wait until more than 50% of the movie is loaded. You can also click on the "ZOOM" button to watch fullscreen.

A video by Erwan Lelann.
Music by Captain Kverne.

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Mickael Fuselier sends "Fifty words for pumped" October 13, 2007

- First ascent - Hardest redpoints - Red River Gorge - Rock climbing - RocTrip

On friday, Mickael Fuselier did the first ascent of Fifty words for pumped in Bob Marley. He proposes 8c+ :

The friction was missing for the previous run, but yesterday I had screaming barfies, and I think it was the good day to do the route.

I've met a small problem again, because I can't clip the fourth quickdraw in the crux. It was: I do the movement or I clip… I chose a really good belayer (Tony Lamiche) and I didn't clip...

The second part of the route was really endurance, but I knew it’s really good. I think the grade is 8c+, but after my ascention Tony find an other beta on the right, so I think it's easier like this, maybe 8c.

It's so good, because a lot of climbers will now be able to do the route, and raise a lot of money for the coalition.

I 'm so happy to do the first ascent of such a nice route ! Thanks a lot everybody for supporting me during the ascent.

Mickael Fuselier

Mickey focusing on the movements before a try on thirsday.
Mickael Fuselier focusing before a run in Fifty words... on thirsday - Photo Boris Stephan

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Sean McColl flashed Thanatopsis, 8c October 12, 2007

- Hardest redpoints - Red River Gorge - Rock climbing - RocTrip - Video

Good day for Sean Mc Coll yesterday ! Here he talks about flashing Thanatopsis (8c) and onsighting White mans Shuffle (8b).

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